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W hen it comes to sensitive skin, the struggle is real. Redness, irritation, and allergic flare-ups can put a major damper on your glow. That’s why more and more of us are turning to clean beauty for a gentler approach. These brands pride themselves on using simple, natural ingredients and leaving out the harsh stuff that can aggravate sensitive types. Sounds like a dream, right?

Well, not so fast. Even in the clean beauty world, there are still some potential pitfalls to watch out for. Fragrances, essential oils, and plant extracts might seem all-natural and harmless, but they can actually be major triggers for sensitive souls. The dermatologists are sounding the alarm – these ingredients have been known to cause reactions like redness, itching, and inflammation.

A 2023 study in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences highlighted how plant-derived ingredients can cause allergic reactions, especially if your skin barrier is already compromised. So while clean beauty brands are out here acting like their products are a gentle caress for your face, you still need to review the entire ingredient list. 

Identifying and Avoiding Skincare Irritants

Transformative skincare products can sometimes contain hidden irritants that pose risks to sensitive skin. Understanding common culprits like fragrances, dyes, and preservatives is key to safeguarding skin health. To protect sensitive skin, consider these strategies:

  1. Fragrance-Free Formulas: Opt for clean beauty products without synthetic fragrances, as fragrances commonly trigger skin sensitivity and irritation. Fragrance-free options minimise adverse reaction risks.
  2. Hypoallergenic Selections: Prioritise hypoallergenic products, which undergo rigorous testing to ensure compatibility with sensitive skin types, reducing the likelihood of allergic responses or irritation.
  3. Ingredient Awareness: Familiarise yourself with common irritants like dyes, certain preservatives and essential oils. Understanding potential triggers allows you to make informed, skin-nurturing choices. Avoid unnecessary ingredients like synthetic dyes, artificial colourants as they can incite skin reactions, manifesting as irritation, rashes, or uneven skin tone. Regarding preservatives while essential for product stability, certain preservatives like parabens and formaldehyde-releasing agents can provoke adverse skin responses in sensitive individuals. These preservatives may contribute to redness, dryness, or allergic dermatitis.

Building a Clean Beauty Routine for Sensitive Skin

To shield your skin from irritants and allergens, follow these guidelines:

  1. Patch Testing: Before introducing a new product, conduct a patch test on a small skin area to assess for adverse reactions or sensitivities.
  2. Read Labels Diligently: Scrutinise product labels for fragrances, dyes, and common allergens. Opt for fragrance-free, dye-free, and hypoallergenic formulations to minimise skin reaction risks.
  3. Professional Guidance: Consult a dermatologist or skincare expert for personalised recommendations tailored to your unique skin needs and sensitivities. Their expertise can guide you toward suitable clean beauty options.

The Clean Beauty Controversy: Transparency Matters

Recent allegations surrounding Sephora’s “Clean at Sephora” initiative shed light on the complexities of clean beauty labelling. The 2024 lawsuit highlighted how misleading marketing claims could lead consumers to believe products were entirely free of synthetic or harmful ingredients.

For reasonable consumers, navigating the “clean” beauty realm involves discerning between marketing promises and ingredient realities. Misleading labelling practices can obscure true product compositions, leading consumers to mistakenly trust exaggerated claims of purity and safety.

In the pursuit of clean beauty for sensitive skin, prioritise products that uphold biocompatibility and pH balance—essential factors in promoting skin harmony. Reference brands like TiN5’s Dirty Ten and Drunk Elephant’s Suspicious 6, which provide guidance on biocompatibility and pH-balanced formulations.

Dispelling Clean Beauty Myths

Q: Are All Ingredients on the Dirty/Suspicious List Necessarily Harmful to the Skin?

While some clean beauty advocates promote a minimalist, pure approach to formulations, not all ingredients labeled as “unclean” are harmful to the skin. Many natural and synthetic ingredients in clean formulations can be beneficial and safe when selected responsibly. The key is proper formulation techniques and rigorous safety assessments to ensure compatibility with various skin types. For instance, parabens, which some avoid due to potential estrogenic effects, are considered safe in cosmetics by regulatory bodies like the FDA within specified concentration limits.

Q: Why Do People Avoid Parabens?

Parabens are known for their estrogenic effects, which can disrupt the body’s natural endocrine function. While some regulatory authorities approve parabens in cosmetics, such as the FDA, guidelines recommend concentration limits to mitigate potential risks.

Q: Are Clean Beauty Products Always Safe for Your Skin?

The clean beauty movement excludes ingredients like parabens, sulfates, and phthalates, often linked to health concerns. However, the absence of these components doesn’t ensure a product is entirely safe for all skin types. Clean formulations may still trigger sensitivities or allergic reactions in some individuals. A product’s safety hinges on the entire formulation, considering the interactions among its ingredients.

I hope by dispelling these myths and misconceptions, you can make more informed choices when selecting skincare products, considering factors beyond just the “clean” or “natural” label to prioritise skin health, safety, and environmental sustainability.

References

Drunk Elephant. (n.d.). The Suspicious 6: Our Unique Philosophy. Retrieved from https://www.drunkelephant.com/blogs/the-drunk-mag/suspicious-6-our-unique-philosophy.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqgQ1RY2k3OpZo3Qqm8AKTSLw30HHVMm3GlSFU5c0H4clDEw-rH

Michalak, M. (2023). Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 24(20), 15444. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms242015444

Sephora. (n.d.). What ingredients are Clean at Sephora products formulated without? Retrieved from https://www.sephora.hk/faqs/900001777923–Clean-at-Sephora/900005687283-What-ingredients-are-Clean-at-Sephora-products-formulated-without?srsltid=AfmBOoqrgbad4KH7k5o5HmTVW8_RsTzYO_Ag4FwMWlBc_Y6WnKhopvNt

TiN5 Skin. (n.d.). Formulate without “The Dirty Ten”. Retrieved from https://www.tin5skin.com/read/dirty-ten/?srsltid=AfmBOorggX8tIZGM4s7VFaHb2TYxmiD7cHT2OKKd6BMMblM90ivJ9r4V

Wray, J. (2024, March 19). Sephora ‘clean beauty’ lawsuit thrown out by judge. Cosmetics Business. Retrieved from https://cosmeticsbusiness.com/sephora-clean-beauty-lawsuit-thrown-out-by-judge

What does a 'clean formulation' mean to you? Would you be more inclined to buy products labelled as 'clean formulation' and formulated without certain ingredients?

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Karen Chow

IFSCC, HKSCC, CSCC Cosmetic Scientist, Co-Founder of TiN5