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C lean beauty— a phrase resonating across skincare sections and beauty forums alike, promising a route to self-care that is healthier and more conscientious. But what exactly defines “clean beauty”? The reality is, there’s no universal definition, no legal guidelines to govern it. It serves more as a marketing differentiation between Clean Beauty and Conventional Beauty. This movement is driven by our shared craving for products that prioritise our well-being while also championing environmental and social responsibility.

Diving into Clean Beauty: A Shift Towards Sustainability

The domain of clean beauty lacks standardisation or oversight. It thrives on sustainability, ethical sourcing, and eco-conscious packaging. Leading clean beauty brands embody this ethos, intertwining carefully sourced ingredients, eco-friendly practices, and a dedication to mindful consumption.

When did this clean beauty revolution ignite? Its origins can be traced back to an escalating awareness of the impact of beauty products on our bodies and the environment. In a 2020 study on toxic components in cosmetics, harmful ingredients such as parabens, triclosan, benzalkonium chloride, microbeads, formaldehyde, ureas, and certain sunscreen elements were highlighted. These substances, added for quality and longevity, pose heightened biological risks to human health and aquatic ecosystems in terms of genotoxicity, cytotoxicity, neurotoxicity, mutagenicity, and estrogenicity.

Today, the focus is on spotlighting innovative products that blend clean formulations with sustainable methods, catering to a discerning audience seeking eco-conscious skincare solutions. A report from Grand View Research in 2021 estimated the global clean beauty market to be valued at $8.25 billion in 2023, with an anticipated compound annual growth rate of 14.8% from 2024 to 2030, fueled by rising consumer awareness and the demand for safe, ethical, and eco-friendly cosmetics.

A Closer Look at Ingredients in Clean Beauty

Clean beauty philosophy often revolves around harnessing the potency of nature. Ingredients like botanical extracts, plant oils, and bioactive compounds form the core of clean beauty formulations. These components are chosen for their ability to nourish and bolster the skin without relying on harsh synthetic chemicals.

Botanical Extracts: Extracts derived from plants are prized for their natural properties, such as soothing inflammation, providing antioxidants, or promoting skin regeneration. Ingredients like chamomile, green tea, and aloe vera are commonly featured in clean beauty products for their gentle yet effective skincare benefits.

Plant Oils: Oils sourced from plants, such as jojoba oil, argan oil, and rosehip oil, are rich in fatty acids and antioxidants that can hydrate, protect, and replenish the skin’s barrier. These oils are favored in clean beauty formulations for mimicking the skin’s natural oils and offering nourishment without clogging pores.

Bioactive Compounds: They are active ingredients sourced from natural origins that exert specific physiological effects on the skin. Ingredients such as retinol (derived from vitamin A), niacinamide (vitamin B3), and green tea extract are commonly utilised in clean beauty products for their targeted skincare benefits.

Delving deeper into clean beauty formulations reveals the integration of green technologies. From biodegradable emulsifiers that enhance product texture without harming the environment to eco-friendly preservatives that maintain product stability without compromising safety, these innovations shape the evolving landscape of clean beauty.

Debunking Clean Beauty Myths

Let’s debunk some common myths. Clean beauty isn’t synonymous with organic or natural beauty, nor is it solely about being green. It’s about transparency, efficacy, and safety. Dive into the realm of natural vs. synthetic skincare, dispelling misconceptions about ingredient purity and effectiveness.

# Is Clean Beauty the Same as Organic, Natural, or Sustainable Beauty? #

The distinction between clean beauty and other terms like organic, natural, or sustainable beauty is confusing. Clean beauty goes beyond these labels, emphasising transparency, efficacy, and safety in skincare products.

  • Organic Beauty: While organic beauty focuses on ingredients grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilisers, clean beauty extends beyond organic certification. Clean beauty products prioritise ingredient safety and effectiveness, regardless of organic status.
  • Natural Beauty: Natural beauty products contain ingredients derived from nature, but not all-natural ingredients are necessarily safe or effective. Clean beauty scrutinises ingredient purity and performance, ensuring that natural components deliver tangible benefits to the skin.
  • Sustainable Beauty: Sustainability is a core tenet of clean beauty, but clean beauty isn’t solely about being green. While sustainable beauty emphasises environmentally friendly practices, clean beauty encompasses a broader spectrum of factors, including ingredient transparency and safety.
# Natural Skincare is 100% Clean and Sustainable? #

The assumption that all-natural skincare products are inherently clean and free of environmental concerns is a common misconception. While natural ingredients like plant extracts can offer skin benefits, the sourcing of these ingredients can have ecological implications. For example, the cultivation of palm oil from palm trees, prevalent in many beauty products, has raised concerns due to deforestation, habitat destruction, and associated environmental issues. Therefore, it’s essential to consider not just the purity of ingredients but also their sustainability and ethical sourcing practices when evaluating the cleanliness of natural skincare products. 

# The Natural Fallacy #

The allure of natural ingredients in skincare products has long been celebrated for their perceived purity and beneficial properties. However, the “natural equals better” narrative can be misleading. Not all-natural ingredients are universally gentle or safe for the skin. Essential oils, citrus extracts, and natural fragrances, often featured in clean beauty formulations, can paradoxically trigger skin irritations and allergies in some individuals.

  • Essential Oils: Essential oils are concentrated extracts derived from plants, renowned for their aromatic and therapeutic properties. While they offer potential benefits like calming inflammation or promoting relaxation, essential oils are potent substances that can sensitise the skin, leading to irritation, redness, or even allergic reactions, especially in those with sensitive skin. 

Pro Tip: Due to the lack of clinical evidence on reproductive toxicity in humans, it is best to avoid or restrict the use of potentially dangerous essential oil constituents such as anethole, apiole, citral, camphor, thymoquinone, trans-sabinyl acetate, methyl salicylate, thujone, pulegone, β-elemene, β-eudesmol, and costus lactone.

  • Citrus Extracts: Citrus extracts, such as lemon or orange, are commonly utilised in skincare for their refreshing scent and potential brightening effects. However, these extracts contain compounds that can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight, potentially causing sunburn or hyperpigmentation when exposed to UV rays.
  • Natural Fragrances: While derived from botanical sources, natural fragrances can contain volatile compounds that may cause skin sensitivities or trigger allergies in some individuals, particularly those with reactive skin.

On the contrary, synthetic ingredients in skincare formulations can offer a gentle and safe alternative to certain natural components, formulated to mimic the beneficial properties of natural substances while minimising the risk of skin sensitivities and allergic responses.

# Preservative Predicament #

The myth of preservative-free products looms large. While some brands champion this philosophy, most skincare formulations require preservatives to prevent bacterial growth. A review in the Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology (2024) emphasised the importance of preservatives in maintaining product safety and stability, underlining the necessity for effective yet safe preservative systems in clean beauty formulations.

Deciphering ingredient lists can feel like solving a cryptic puzzle. Without guidance, discerning the cleanliness of a product becomes a daunting task. Clean beauty is a personal journey shaped by individual values and beliefs. For many, it aligns with sustainability, transparency, and plant-based principles, making it a preferred choice in the pursuit of healthier skincare alternatives.

SO, who are the target audience of this marketing, and who should actually watch out and be the beneficial audience?

The clean beauty movement primarily targets conscious consumers seeking safer, more eco-friendly alternatives to conventional beauty products. However, individuals with sensitive skin or specific skin concerns should exercise caution and carefully evaluate clean beauty products before incorporating them into their routines. <Read next article on Clean Beauty for Sensitive Skin: Identifying and Avoiding Common Skin Irritants>

While clean beauty brands often prioritise gentle, non-irritating formulations, it’s crucial to read ingredient lists carefully and conduct patch tests before using new products, especially for those with sensitive skin. Consulting with a dermatologist or skincare professional can also help identify suitable clean beauty options tailored to individual skin needs and sensitivities.

References

Bilal, Muhammad & Mahmood, Shahid & Iqbal, Hafiz. (2020). The Beast of Beauty: Environmental and Health Concerns of Toxic Components in Cosmetics. Cosmetics. 7. 13. 10.3390/cosmetics7010013.

Grand View Research. (2021). Clean beauty market size, share & trends analysis report by product (skin care, hair care, make-up), by category (conventional, organic), by distribution channel, by region, and segment forecasts, 2021 – 2028. https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/clean-beauty-products-market

Tang, Z., & Du, Q. (2024). Mechanism of Action of Preservatives in Cosmetics. Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology, 100054. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2024.100054.

 

“Do you think clean beauty is all about gimmick or actually a good indication to quickly identify less irritating formulas?”

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Karen Chow

IFSCC, HKSCC, CSCC Cosmetic Scientist, Co-Founder of TiN5