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In the world of skincare, moisturisers play a crucial role in keeping our skin healthy and glowing. Have you ever pondered on the contents of your moisturiser, what sets pricier creams apart, and why this step is indispensable in your skincare regimen? Let’s unravel the essence of moisturisers and their significance in our daily routines.

What is a Moisturiser?

A moisturiser is a skincare product designed to hydrate and nourish the skin, ensuring its health and vitality.While some may contemplate skipping this step to streamline their routine, neglecting moisturisers can deprive the skin of crucial nourishment. Inadequate hydration can lead to tightness, dryness, and visible signs of ageing like lines and wrinkles. (It’s a common oversight for many to neglect applying moisturiser to their neck! This leads to noticeable necklines rather than facial lines in individuals in their 30s.) Moisturisers act as a protective barrier and shield on the skin’s surface, shielding it from environmental harm and reducing the likelihood of irritation.

There is a common misconception that individuals with oily skin can forego moisturisers. However, it is important to dispel this myth for better skin care understanding. Actually oily skin needs hydration as inadequate moisture can prompt the skin to produce more oil, exacerbating oily skin issues. Maintaining a balance between oil and moisture is key for healthy skin, including for those with oily skin. Choosing the right moisturiser can help regulate oil production, maintain skin hydration, and promote a balanced, radiant complexion.

Did you realise that moisturisers can be oil-based or oil-free? Opting for the appropriate moisturiser is crucial. Embrace lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturisers or hydrating gels that nourish skin without clogging pores. These formulations offer essential moisture without a heavy sensation or exacerbating oiliness. Let’s explore the components of a typical moisturiser to better understand its composition and what to watch out for your skin.

The Fundamental composition

  • Emulsifiers = These are ingredients that blend oil and water components in a moisturiser to create a uniform mixture.
  • Moisturising Agents = The trio of humectants, occlusives, and emollients that hydrates skin.
    • Humectants: Glycerin, butylene glycol, and propylene glycol are common humectants that can be found, they are responsible for attracting moisture into the skin.
    • Occlusive: These substances create a protective seal on the skin’s surface and prevent water loss. Petrolatum, lanolin, mineral oils, and silicones are some examples of occlusives. Natural alternatives like beeswax and shea butter offer similar benefits.
    • Emollients: Ingredients like Shea butter, jojoba oil, and silicones help soften and smooth the skin, enhancing product texture. 
  • Polymer and thickeners: Ingredients help stabilise the formula and give the moisturiser its desired texture.
  • Sensory Modifiers: Are added to enhance the user experience.
  • Preservatives: Are added to maintain product safety and shelf life.

In addition to the above ingredients, advanced benefit ingredients including vitamins, antioxidants, lipids, or sunscreens are often included in the formulation of moisturisers. 

Exploring Different Types of Moisturizers

Moisturisers come in various forms such as gels, lotions, and creams. In the past, the older generation often relied on products like Vaseline and still maintained glowing, flawless skin. Let’s delve into the characteristics of these moisturisers to help you make an informed choice for your skincare routine:

Gel Moisturisers:

  • Water/Oil Content: Gel moisturisers are high in water content and can be formulated as either oil-free gels or 100% oil. (When discussing gels, it is common that people are referring to water gels.)
  • Greasiness: They are lightweight and typically non-greasy, absorbing quickly into the skin.
  • Absorption Rate: Water gels are swiftly absorbed, leaving a refreshing, non-sticky sensation.
  • Suitability: Ideal for oily or acne-prone skin, especially during humid weather or in the summertime, as they provide hydration without feeling heavy.

Lotion Moisturisers:

  • Water/Oil Content: Lotion moisturisers maintain a balanced water/oil ratio and are commonly formulated in an Oil-in-Water (O/W) system.
  • Greasiness: They offer moderate greasiness and a light layer of hydration.
  • Absorption Rate: Lotions can vary from runny to moderately thick, with absorption rates tailored to provide hydration and a smooth finish.
  • Suitability: Suited for normal to combination skin types, offering adequate moisture without a heavy feel.

Cream Moisturisers:

  • Water/Oil Content: Cream moisturisers contain higher oil content and are typically formulated in a Water-in-Oil (W/O) system.
  • Greasiness: They are thicker and richer, providing intense hydration and nourishment.
  • Absorption Rate: Creams take longer to absorb, forming a protective film on the skin for deep nourishment and protection.
  • Suitability: Best for dry or mature skin and colder climates where extra moisture and barrier protection are essential.

Gel Cream Moisturisers:

  • Water/Oil Content: Gel cream moisturisers strike a balance between water and oil content.
  • Greasiness: They combine the lightweight feel of gels with the richness of creams.
  • Absorption Rate: Gel creams absorb quickly, delivering deep hydration.
  • Suitability: Ideal for combination skin or individuals preferring a lighter texture with added moisture.

ProTip: For sensitive skin, prioritising ingredients over texture is crucial.

Adapting the choice of moisturiser according to specific skin requirements is key to maintaining healthy and radiant skin. Here are some scenarios where adjusting your moisturiser can be particularly beneficial:

  1. Seasonal Changes:
  • Winter: During colder months, when the air is dry and harsh, opt for richer cream moisturisers to provide extra hydration and protection against the elements.
  • Summer: In warmer seasons, gel or lightweight lotion moisturisers can help prevent clogged pores and provide sufficient hydration without feeling heavy on the skin.

To explore further, click here to read the previous post.

  1. Post-Sun Exposure:
  • After prolonged sun exposure, especially if sunburnt, soothing and hydrating moisturisers with ingredients like aloe vera, hyaluronic acid, or ceramide can help repair and rejuvenate sun-damaged skin.
  1. T-Zone Treatment:
  • For those with combination skin, where the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) tends to be oilier than other areas, consider using oil-free or gel moisturisers in this region to prevent excess oiliness without compromising hydration.

ProTip: By customising your moisturiser based on these factors, you can address specific skin concerns effectively and promote skin health and balance. Remember, regular skincare adjustments can help you achieve a glowing complexion tailored to your skin’s unique needs.

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Karen Chow

IFSCC, HKSCC, CSCC Cosmetic Scientist, Co-Founder of TiN5